• corroded@lemmy.world
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    21 days ago

    I love it, and for anyone else who does, I have a suggestion.

    Get a SodaStream (or whatever your carbonator-of-choice is) and a cheap adapter to run it from a standard CO2 tank. Not only do you save money on CO2 refills, but you save money on buying cans of seltzer, too. The concentrated flavor additives are only a few dollars at the grocery store.

    I think my SodaStream was something like $100. The adapter and hoses were $50-ish. The flavor syrup costs around $5 for enough to make gallons. Every few months or more, I might pay $50 or so to refill a 20lb CO2 tank. It’s already paid for itself, and it’s incredibly convenient.

    • MechanicalJester@lemm.ee
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      21 days ago

      I just shake the water to carbonation using a stainless steel 2 gallon tank with a tap I keep in the fridge.

      I use a squeeze of lime in my glass before adding the water and it’s great!

    • Botzo@lemmy.world
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      21 days ago

      You can skip the soda stream and use a cheap carbonator cap on standard plastic bottles and a ball lock connector on your gas line if you’re willing to shake the bottle manually.

      I’ve taken this setup a couple levels up over the last 5 years.

      First level: kegerator and switch out the bottle for a keg, bonus points for using a diffusion stone in the keg to speed the absorption of CO2.

      Second level: plumb the water line and use a continuous carbonator lid on the keg. Your gas pressure will need to be 10-15 psi (.7-1 bar) lower than the water pressure. Even a small 2.5gal (9.5L) keg makes for nearly infinite cold fizzy water at reasonable consumption rates.

      Happy to make a parts list if anyone is interested.

        • Botzo@lemmy.world
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          20 days ago

          The list is going to be mostly USA specific (I’ll come back with links), but many of the fittings are from Kegland (Australia), so we get a blend of “freedom” units and metric

          We’ll start with level 1:

          Tools: Depending on what exactly your goals are, you’ll need

          • a tubing cutter
          • a faucet wrench
          • a crescent wrench
          • a cheap water pressure gauge (you can check on your hose bib outside).

          I’ll be specifying push-in fittings because they’re so much nicer to use.

          Kegerator: obviously not a hard requirement. You can build a “keezer” out of a chest freezer, or bore a hole in your fridge for the faucet, or even use a picnic tap on a keg in the fridge (but you’ll also have to get your gas line in the fridge which means also putting the tank in there, or boring a hole for the line anyway)

          CO2 tank: These come in 5, 10, and 20lb sizes commonly available at welding shops, and are almost universally swapped out instead of refilled (so don’t get attached). Check your prices for a new tank on the internet before you go to the welding shop to buy one. They will likely overcharge you for the first tank (by a hundred dollars), but they’ll like it if you bring them a shiny new one and might give you a discount. My 10lb tank lasts us about 6 months and I have a backup 5lb tank.

          CO2 regulator: If you’re planning on beer taps too, go for a dual regulator right away and save yourself the hassle (serving beer is low pressure vs high pressure for water). Try to find one with a threaded output (“flare”) instead of a barbed output (or bonus points for having a push-in fitting already).

          Keg: I use 2.5 or 5 gallon ball-lock cornelius (corny/soda) kegs

          Gas and beer/water tubing: I use evabarrier only. All the fittings will be 8mm push-in (typically “duotight”) so get a length of 8mm x 4mm for liquid, and 8mm x 5mm for gas. These are the conventions for beer, and I just followed them for water.

          Fittings:

          • 3x of the 1/4" x 8mm push-in fittings: regulator out, keg gas in, keg water out
          • 1x Gas ball lock (typically gray), 1x Liquid Ball lock (typically black). I’d go for a “flow control” liquid ball-lock fitting. They are just enough different to be incompatible, so make sure to get 1 of each.
          • 1x 8mm x 6.5mm push-in reducer (for the tap faucet shank)
          • 1 6.5mm (3/16") compatible faucet shank
          • 1 beer faucet
          • 1 novelty tap handle
          • I always recommend a check valve on the CO2 line, but it isn’t a hard requirement (until we plumb the water line in level 2).
          • Optional: keg lid with diffusion stone (or buy the stone and attach it to your gas post to save a little, but you’ll need matching hose and clamps.

          Level 2: This assumes you have completed level 1 Additional tools: none!

          I’m going to assume you have a standard angle stop (like your toilet) for your water line. And I’m going to assume your plumber was nice enough to attach a 3/8" (9.5mm) push-in fitting.

          Tubing:

          • 9.5mm evabarrier to connect to the output that we’ll step down to our “standard” beer dispensing 8mm I have about 4 inches

          Fittings:

          • 1x 9.5mm to 8mm push-in reducer
          • 2x 8mm check valves for your gas and water lines (don’t be backing up the system on either side!)
          • 1x 1/4"x8mm push-in fitting
          • 1x liquid ball lock
          • 1x inline push-in regulator if you don’t know your water pressure and/or need to reduce it
          • 1x continuous carbonator keg lid (you can move your diffusion stone to this cap)
          • SplashJackson@lemmy.ca
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            20 days ago

            Thanks for the info, I especially like the cheeky note about the novelty tap handle! I’m going to save this into my second brain for 2025 doings

            • Botzo@lemmy.world
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              20 days ago

              You’re welcome! It’s a fun project and journey. Feel free to message if you have questions.