I’m not a fan of this article, mostly because Evan Christenson contemplates the darker side of charities working in underdeveloped countries without actually exploring them beyond criticizing WBR. It’s, likely unintentional, FUD propaganda.

It should not be a shock to find out that charities have overhead and many of them have unfortunate side effects. For example, Evan brings up Doctors Without Borders as a charity with lower overhead and a leader less compensated. That’s true, but did you also know they sell your personal information when you donate to them? That’s part of how they lower their costs. Also they provide doctor services for free. What does that do to the doctors who are there trying to make a meager living? DWB is undermining what little medical infrastructure the country has.

Is that a bad thing? Is it a good thing? That depends on you, the donor’s, perspective. Selling my data to provide more doctor is fine with me. Same with undermining the countries’ medical market because it’s a temporary thing and usually in a crisis where not providing help is definitively worse.

I’ll continue donating to WBR because their expense ratio is acceptable, even good, for physical good imports given the shipping overhead (aka bribes) in Africa. Admim is ~15% and fundraising is ~23%. Everything else goes into the bicycle and into families with kids who cannot afford one. That’s a lower margin than buying just about any good from your local shops, and it’s lower than many other charities working in Africa!

The brands mentioned here (Topeak, Silca, and Park Tools) all have rebuild kits and they’ve been around for a long time. I wouldn’t hesitate buying any of their models.

I’ve been using a Topeak Joeblow for more than 10 years now. I don’t exactly remember when I bought it, but I’ve thrown it around quite hard and it still works great today.

That said, it’s not possible to have a forever-pump because all pumps have seals. These seals will slowly degrade over time. What you should look for is a company that sells spare parts and rebuild kits. Ideally a company that has been around for a long time so you can have a decent expectation that they’ll still be around when you need a rebuild kit (new-old-stock doesn’t work great for rubber/leather goods). Bonus points if the rebuild kit looks like parts that you could make or find from a local hardware store; just in case the company does fold.

Studies have shown that blinking lights improve reaction time to bikes on the road. The most common issue is determining the distance to the bike. This effect is more pronounced during night.

That’s why I use my bike lights all the time set to blink with a multi-second on phase. It makes me more noticeable and easy to estimate distance.

Also cars do have blinking lights these days. The newer car models like to blink the center brake light for a second before going static. Motorbikes have also long had rear blinking and “breathing” front light.

Interesting! Thanks for the explanation. :)

Has something changed recently? When I was in Tokyo, admittedly more than a decade ago now, the bike lanes were tiny slivers of paint. And I do mean a sliver; they were not much wider than a foot. It would be unsafe to use them in traffic.

Specifically 5, 10, and 15mhz AM. There are others, but you’ll really hear NIST WWV/WWVH if you’re in North America/Pacific.

These disks were designed to self-destruct in the presence of oxygen. They literally rust away.

Oxygen and its O2 form does like to sneak into everything. Even sealed in the original packaging, there’s a limited shelf life. Flexplay claimed stability of only one year, which isn’t much given it comes sealed in a plastic bag.

Oof. You definitely were taking a risk with that drive train. I’m glad the worst of it is a few broken spokes.

That’s clearly have a working bike, not some sort of weekend roadie show piece. Put a dork disk on there! There isn’t any shame in favoring function over form.

Awesome call-out on zip ties. They’re the duct tape of the bike world.

One small thing I noticed is how your fender and rack are mounted. It’s fine to share a single eyelet to mount both, but it’s best to mount in the order of frame, rack, fender, washer, and bolt. That ordering shortens the cantilever of the rack load, a much higher load than a fender, on the bolt.