Q’Auto is for LinkGlide, which requires pedaling pressure to shift correctly. Hyperglide and Hyperglide+ perform similarly when shifting to more teeth, albeit to a lesser degree. SRAM Eagle is another drivetrain technology that requires more torque to shift correctly. LG and Eagle can kinda shift like garbage when soft-pedaling.
I have test-ridden LG and Eagle, For me, shifts are perfect in the 10 to 25% torque range; full pedaling torque results in perfect shifts nearly every time. And I’m a clydesdale.
Another thing to consider: LG right now is targeted for commuters and e-bikes, although Shimano seems to be expanding the tech. So it’s designed for high load and commuter levels of neglect.
In my experience (>165,000 lifetime miles), HG requires letting up when shifting to less teeth, HG+ less so. The overarching amount of wear comes from a dirty drivetrain and riding on a worn chain*. Keep your drivetrain clean, stay on top of the prescribed maintenance intervals, and the components will last a long time.
FWIW, the only time I have ever broken chains was putting down too much torque when shifting to a smaller tooth count. And that was only with HG. I haven’t broken a chain in decades. HG+ seems to be very tolerant of more torque in both directions.
*This script is getting flipped in some technologies (Eagle, IIRC), with the chain having a much longer service interval than the chainrings.
Thanks for the explainer! I think I am in the commuter neglect category, but I am trying to understand my bike a bit more so I don’t always have to bring it to the mechanic, now I have a bunch of words to search for!
Happy to help! The bikewrench community (https://lemmy.world/c/bikewrench) is really helpful and mostly populated by knowledgeable people. Just make sure to be patient for correct answers.
Non-electric, non-whiz-bang bicycles are inherently knowable to everyone. All the functions are sitting right there in the open. Even the bits inside other bits are still comprehensible to a non-techie person willing to put in a couple hours of learning.
This is in contrast to, say, an internal gear hub (IGH). There are not many people who can work on the internals of these things. I mean actually repair and rebuild them, and make them better than new.
If you’re in the neglectful commuter segment, take a look at Shimano CUES Linkglide. You can get an entire group for something like $350 (don’t quote me on that). There’s a lot more to indicate CUES, but I’ll spare you.
Q’Auto is for LinkGlide, which requires pedaling pressure to shift correctly. Hyperglide and Hyperglide+ perform similarly when shifting to more teeth, albeit to a lesser degree. SRAM Eagle is another drivetrain technology that requires more torque to shift correctly. LG and Eagle can kinda shift like garbage when soft-pedaling.
I have test-ridden LG and Eagle, For me, shifts are perfect in the 10 to 25% torque range; full pedaling torque results in perfect shifts nearly every time. And I’m a clydesdale.
Another thing to consider: LG right now is targeted for commuters and e-bikes, although Shimano seems to be expanding the tech. So it’s designed for high load and commuter levels of neglect.
In my experience (>165,000 lifetime miles), HG requires letting up when shifting to less teeth, HG+ less so. The overarching amount of wear comes from a dirty drivetrain and riding on a worn chain*. Keep your drivetrain clean, stay on top of the prescribed maintenance intervals, and the components will last a long time.
FWIW, the only time I have ever broken chains was putting down too much torque when shifting to a smaller tooth count. And that was only with HG. I haven’t broken a chain in decades. HG+ seems to be very tolerant of more torque in both directions.
*This script is getting flipped in some technologies (Eagle, IIRC), with the chain having a much longer service interval than the chainrings.
Thanks for the explainer! I think I am in the commuter neglect category, but I am trying to understand my bike a bit more so I don’t always have to bring it to the mechanic, now I have a bunch of words to search for!
Happy to help! The bikewrench community (https://lemmy.world/c/bikewrench) is really helpful and mostly populated by knowledgeable people. Just make sure to be patient for correct answers.
Non-electric, non-whiz-bang bicycles are inherently knowable to everyone. All the functions are sitting right there in the open. Even the bits inside other bits are still comprehensible to a non-techie person willing to put in a couple hours of learning.
This is in contrast to, say, an internal gear hub (IGH). There are not many people who can work on the internals of these things. I mean actually repair and rebuild them, and make them better than new.
If you’re in the neglectful commuter segment, take a look at Shimano CUES Linkglide. You can get an entire group for something like $350 (don’t quote me on that). There’s a lot more to indicate CUES, but I’ll spare you.