Sound cool, but I wonder how durable it is. I pedal pretty hard and I always lessen the torque when shifting to not degrade the components as fast. If my bike is shifting on its own, wouldn’t that cause more untimely shifts which grind down parts?
Q’Auto is for LinkGlide, which requires pedaling pressure to shift correctly. Hyperglide and Hyperglide+ perform similarly when shifting to more teeth, albeit to a lesser degree. SRAM Eagle is another drivetrain technology that requires more torque to shift correctly. LG and Eagle can kinda shift like garbage when soft-pedaling.
I have test-ridden LG and Eagle, For me, shifts are perfect in the 10 to 25% torque range; full pedaling torque results in perfect shifts nearly every time. And I’m a clydesdale.
Another thing to consider: LG right now is targeted for commuters and e-bikes, although Shimano seems to be expanding the tech. So it’s designed for high load and commuter levels of neglect.
In my experience (>165,000 lifetime miles), HG requires letting up when shifting to less teeth, HG+ less so. The overarching amount of wear comes from a dirty drivetrain and riding on a worn chain*. Keep your drivetrain clean, stay on top of the prescribed maintenance intervals, and the components will last a long time.
FWIW, the only time I have ever broken chains was putting down too much torque when shifting to a smaller tooth count. And that was only with HG. I haven’t broken a chain in decades. HG+ seems to be very tolerant of more torque in both directions.
*This script is getting flipped in some technologies (Eagle, IIRC), with the chain having a much longer service interval than the chainrings.
Thanks for the explainer! I think I am in the commuter neglect category, but I am trying to understand my bike a bit more so I don’t always have to bring it to the mechanic, now I have a bunch of words to search for!
Happy to help! The bikewrench community (https://lemmy.world/c/bikewrench) is really helpful and mostly populated by knowledgeable people. Just make sure to be patient for correct answers.
Non-electric, non-whiz-bang bicycles are inherently knowable to everyone. All the functions are sitting right there in the open. Even the bits inside other bits are still comprehensible to a non-techie person willing to put in a couple hours of learning.
This is in contrast to, say, an internal gear hub (IGH). There are not many people who can work on the internals of these things. I mean actually repair and rebuild them, and make them better than new.
If you’re in the neglectful commuter segment, take a look at Shimano CUES Linkglide. You can get an entire group for something like $350 (don’t quote me on that). There’s a lot more to indicate CUES, but I’ll spare you.
Sound cool, but I wonder how durable it is. I pedal pretty hard and I always lessen the torque when shifting to not degrade the components as fast. If my bike is shifting on its own, wouldn’t that cause more untimely shifts which grind down parts?
Q’Auto is for LinkGlide, which requires pedaling pressure to shift correctly. Hyperglide and Hyperglide+ perform similarly when shifting to more teeth, albeit to a lesser degree. SRAM Eagle is another drivetrain technology that requires more torque to shift correctly. LG and Eagle can kinda shift like garbage when soft-pedaling.
I have test-ridden LG and Eagle, For me, shifts are perfect in the 10 to 25% torque range; full pedaling torque results in perfect shifts nearly every time. And I’m a clydesdale.
Another thing to consider: LG right now is targeted for commuters and e-bikes, although Shimano seems to be expanding the tech. So it’s designed for high load and commuter levels of neglect.
In my experience (>165,000 lifetime miles), HG requires letting up when shifting to less teeth, HG+ less so. The overarching amount of wear comes from a dirty drivetrain and riding on a worn chain*. Keep your drivetrain clean, stay on top of the prescribed maintenance intervals, and the components will last a long time.
FWIW, the only time I have ever broken chains was putting down too much torque when shifting to a smaller tooth count. And that was only with HG. I haven’t broken a chain in decades. HG+ seems to be very tolerant of more torque in both directions.
*This script is getting flipped in some technologies (Eagle, IIRC), with the chain having a much longer service interval than the chainrings.
Thanks for the explainer! I think I am in the commuter neglect category, but I am trying to understand my bike a bit more so I don’t always have to bring it to the mechanic, now I have a bunch of words to search for!
Happy to help! The bikewrench community (https://lemmy.world/c/bikewrench) is really helpful and mostly populated by knowledgeable people. Just make sure to be patient for correct answers.
Non-electric, non-whiz-bang bicycles are inherently knowable to everyone. All the functions are sitting right there in the open. Even the bits inside other bits are still comprehensible to a non-techie person willing to put in a couple hours of learning.
This is in contrast to, say, an internal gear hub (IGH). There are not many people who can work on the internals of these things. I mean actually repair and rebuild them, and make them better than new.
If you’re in the neglectful commuter segment, take a look at Shimano CUES Linkglide. You can get an entire group for something like $350 (don’t quote me on that). There’s a lot more to indicate CUES, but I’ll spare you.